Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Books for Peace

Last week Tom and I helped with some Peace Corps training. It happened to be in Nyanza, which was the home of the last kings of Rwanda. We got a chance to visit the museum and the homes of the two last kings – one traditional Rwandan, and one Belgian-built palace. It was great to see, and while we were there, we decided to buy an amazing coffee table book of Rwandan history. Not only was it beautiful, it was trilingual, with side-by-side French, English, and Kinyarwanda.



Buying the book wasn’t an easy decision, since it cost about a third of my monthly Peace Corps stipend, but I love it, from its detailed descriptions of goat entrail divination and banana leaf raincoats, to its complete non-coverage of the war. While that can seem like an oversight, it’s great to have something that validates the fact that Rwandan history and culture did not begin and end in 1994. We happily added it to the stack of books on our coffee table—books that we use for learning Kinyarwanda, like a Kinyarwanda comic book and our phrase books, but that we also like sharing with guests, who will look at them for hours. Rwandans are hungry to learn English, since the government switched from French to English as the official language really abruptly in January of 2009 (our Kinyarwanda-English dictionary will be in tatters soon). Moreover, people have just not had access to books in Kinyarwanda, aside from bibles and hymnals.

While I was prepared for Rwanda to be poor, I was not prepared for the level of “book poverty.” Books here are scarce and expensive. I can probably count on my hand-- maybe even one hand-- the number of bookstores in the country, and while there is a library project in the capital, it has yet to open. Because I grew up in a rural area, I compare my experience to that or rural kids here all the time. For instance, I loved the public library. Tiffin had a wonderful one, and it was where I gained my interest in a broader world. In junior high, when I went to school across the street, I went there almost every day. In recent hypothetical baby name conversations with Tom, my request for girl’s name is both the name of my favorite author and my children’s librarian. I am that kind of person. When I saw a Rwandan coworker rapt, flipping through my bosses’ kids’ copy of Pat the Bunny, for the first time,* it made me want to hijack a bookmobile and bring it here.

Rwanda is dependent on the knowledge and skills of its people to survive. Farming is already incredibly intense here, there is little in the way of mineral wealth, its hope lies with its people, and there are a lot. This is the most population dense country in Africa, after all. Some of the skills they need to compete in a global economy are language and computer skills. These are things that a library can provide. But libraries and books, and, importantly, programs that promote and optimize the use of libraries and books, can promote a love of learning, as well as just providing a source of joy. For this reason, I am really excited about an initiative started by Peace Corps volunteers, the Books for Peace Project. 14 volunteers, 14 different communities, are working with Books for Africa to deliver a cargo container of books and computers to their villages, scattered across the country. Communities agree raise a certain amount themselves, for example, by hiring a librarian, and building a space for books to be kept and used. Because there is community ownership of the project, and a volunteer dedicated to the project, they will avoid some of the problems I have seen, where there are books, but no interest in them, or no access to them. Books are expensive and irreplaceable here, I understand, but it was so sad to see a collection of books, lovingly donated by an American, sitting pristine and untouched, locked in the cabinet in the school headmaster’s office.

These resources are going to help add to the educational experience of poor rural kids, as well as urban street kids, and provide resources for staff at health centers. The program has raised a considerable amount of money, but has over $7,000 to go. I hope you’ll visit their site and consider contributing (you can also contact the point person listed there for more information).

As I switched sites, I am not involved in this round, but plan to be involved in participate in the next, and try to bring a little booklove to my new home. I’ll keep anyone who’s interested updated here.

*The realization that they had probably also never read The Velveteen Rabbit was devastating.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Rainy season is the new fall

It’s time for my second rainy season in Rwanda (there are 2 each year, the first starting around April). This one is not as intense as the first, and I don’t know if it’s because of where I’m living, an unusual year, normal variation, etc. Still, I don’t leave the house without a raincoat wadded up in my bag. I live in a big, open valley and when there’s a storm, I can literally see it coming a mile away. The lightning looks pretty spectacular, too.

Another nice thing about the timing of the rainy season is that it’s cooler, matching up nicely with the weather back home. It’s definitely not “November in Ohio” cold here right now, but it was nice to be a little cold at night and to have a Halloween bonfire. The temperature doesn’t vary all that much in Rwanda, and having a little bit of a season change is helping my body comprehend that I’ve really been gone almost a year, missing half of winter, and all of spring, summer, and fall at home. This is the longest I’ve ever been out of the US.

The cooler weather makes me want to make comfort food all the time. My organization feeds all of its staff three meals a day, which is great, but I miss getting to cook all the time, and one the weekend, I almost always make macaroni and cheese. It somehow seems especially good when it rains.

To make it:

Make most of a bag of curly pasta.

While that cooks, grate a couple of handfuls of gouda (the only cheese you can get in Rwanda, and God bless whatever Belgians or whoever introduced it).
In a saucepan, combine 4 tbs of butter or blue band or butter. I’ve also used oil. Melt the butter, then stir in 4 tbs. of flour. If you don’t have measuring spoons, don’t sweat it. The idea is to use equal amounts. Stir or whisk them together for a few minutes, being careful that they don’t burn. Add one cup of milk and stir until the sauce thickens. Then stir in your cheese, until it melts. If it gets all stringy and weird, just keep stirring until it’s a smooth consistency (add more milk if it seems too thick). At this point, you could theoretically add the noodles, and it would be great. However, I like to start adding a bunch of condiments to try to fake what it would be like with sharp cheddar. This usually involves about 3 spoonfuls of mustard, some Worcestershire sauce, a few squirts of hot sauce (not urusenda), and a bunch of black pepper, just because. When I like it, it’s done.

I'm trying to find a new housing situation, something less secluded and more like a normal Peace Corps setup. Hopefully I'll have more to post soon.